Snape Maltings, Suffolk

The composer Benjamin Britten was inspired by the 'vast skies and moody seas' of the Suffolk coast. A central figure of 20th-century British classical music, he was born in Lowestoft and died in Aldeburgh. He was one of the founders of the Aldeburgh Music Festival in 1948.

Benjamin Britten

Newson Garrett was a Victorian entrepreneur who purchased land at the small port of Maltings in the 1800's. Within three years of his arrival Garrett was shipping 17,000 quarters of barley a year from Snape and being one to spot an opportunity he built the Maltings in 1854 and was soon shipping malt rather than barley to the  brewing areas of Norwich and London. When this process came to an end in the 1960's, thirty acres of land and seven acres of industrial buildings were left vacant.

Serendipitously, Britten's festival was outgrowing it's first home at about the same time and he had the brilliance to envision the conversion of the largest malthouse into a concert hall, which was opened by the Queen in 1967. The complex is now home to rehearsal space as well as independent shops, galleries, restaurants, art exhibitions and what the English estate agents call 'character properties'...all tucked into brick buildings - new, old, and very old...but all brick.

Entering the complex, we found buildings that were neat and welcoming with freshly painted black and white trim. The gift shops, galleries, and restaurants were quite busy even at midday on a midweek in mid-May. It wasn't until we were heading out the exit that the complex took on a distinctly wabi-sabi aspect. In these unused buildings, time had done what it does best and created a beautiful palette of slow, steady disintegration.

 

Photo by Amethina

Photo by Amethina

I very much fear that over time, all of these wonderful old bedraggled buildings will be cleaned up and converted into character townhouses and bolt-holes for wealthy Londoners. I would like to think the worn and aged bricks are better prepared to absorb the strains of music of a similar age as it wafts over the Suffolk saltings.

Notes:
Saltings: An area of coastal land that is regularly covered by the tide.
Maltings: A malt house, or maltings, is a building where cereal grain is converted into malt by soaking it in water, allowing it to sprout and then drying it to stop further growth. The malt is used in brewing beer, whiskey and in certain foods. The traditional malt house was largely phased out during the twentieth century.

Aldeburgh

We made our first trip to the Suffolk Coast yesterday. We intended to do Aldeburgh, a couple neighboring villages and then go up the coast to Southwold. We got a little sidetracked on the way to the coast however, by Framlingham Castle so it was time for lunch when we arrived at Aldeburgh and we never made it to Southwold. That was just fine with us, we were ready for fish and chips. So my daughter stood in line at the famous Aldeburgh Fish & Chips Shop, while my son-in-law got our cider & ale at The White Hart, and I sat in the beer garden and was waited on. The biggest piece of plaice I have ever seen, a delicious piece of cod, a bag of chips, and a very tasty deep-fried veggie & cheese patty - so nice to be in a situation where you are expected to eat fatty food.

It wasn't very warm, but it was a Saturday so the streets were quite crowded.

We were already aware that one didn't say 'Ald-uh-burg', but it was nice of this mile marker sitting on High Street to confirm what we had already learned...

The most important building, and far away the most interesting is the Moot Hall, a Grade 1 listed building that has been used for Council meetings for over 400 years.

The back side of the Moot Hall

Aldeburgh has a shingle beach with the boats pulled up, something you never see in the states - at least on the West Coast.

I'd like to think that the cod and plaice we had for lunch came directly from the
 Aldeburgh fishing fleet, I know it probably didn't, I choose to believe it did.

 

A short ways north of town you find 'The Scallop' a stainless steel sculpture by Maggi Hambling dedicated to Benjamin Britten, who used to walk along the beach in the afternoons. The upright shell is pierced with the words: "I hear those voices that will not be drowned", text from Britten's opera "Peter Grimes"

 

It was a brilliant sculpture in its own right, but the text added such poignancy.

The an internationally known Aldeburgh Festival, actually takes place at nearby Snape Maltings... more about Snape and the Maltings later.